First Hueco Trip of the 2013 Season

Well, for those of you who keep up with our climbing endeavors, you’ll know that about this time last year, we took a trip to Hueco where I fell off a warm up problem and totally busted up my ankle. After missing the pad with my heel, my foot slammed into the rock and I felt a very sharp tingling sensation go up both sides of my leg from my ankle to my calf muscle.  5 minutes later it was the size of a softball.  Honestly, I’m still not sure what I did exactly because I never did go to a doctor. Dumb, I know, but I doubt there’s anything they could have done and they would have told me to stay off of it for a certain amount of time… and we all know that wouldn’t have happened. The reason why that sucked so hard (other than the OBVIOUS ones) was because I was going to try and send a really good problem I had been working the previous trips – and this was our last trip out to Hueco before it got too hot and we had to wait another 8 months to give it another go. Well, of course since I turned into a cripple and had to hobble out of the park, I never did make it out to that problem and that damn rock has been sitting there for a year taunting me from across the desert. Soooo…after almost a year, (and battling to get a freakin’ reservation) we finally made it back out to the park.

Phalyn tooling around on a warm up problem
Me on the same problem
Stu giving "See Spot Run" V6 a couple burns
A cactus blooming...
How beautiful is that?

 

So this is my nemesis. It’s name is Roughage and the going rate is V7. Tommy HATES this problem with a passion and the reason is because he hates spotting me on it. I can’t blame him – the landing is awful, especially when you get high. However, we had plenty of pads and an extra pair of helping hands from our buddy Stu…who also HATES this problem. I’m not sure why this thing gets such a bad rap. Yes, the landing is horrible, but it’s such an awesome mental and physical challenge that everyone who can climb should try it at some point. =)

 

Brushing off some chalk...
The starting sequence is good - but there are micro feet
Crossing to a great dish
Matched and ready to chuck myself up
The rail is actually very nice if you grab it right...
Trying to find some feet
I've gotta get to that big ledge up there...
It's mine!!
Time for the scary part...Stu said he was yelling at me to breathe and Tommy was scrambling to get the pads situated if I fell...
Trying to turn a heel into a toe...this took a good couple seconds which felt like an eternity up there...
Trying to set my feet to get my right hand...
Finally getting my right hand...still not sure if I'm gonna get to the top...Tommy is having a seizure and Stu is beneath me holding up a pad to keep me from rolling off the rock
Grabbing the lip...
Getting my feet up...
Almost over the top!!!
And Roughage is down for the count!! Woo hoooooooo!!!!
Happy Birthday to ME!!!!!

 

*The truth of the matter is that I never would have been able to complete this climb if it hadn’t been for Tommy and Stu. It’s a testament to them that I fell off this thing several times and didn’t get hurt once. Great spotters make these highballs possible!

 

 

 

2 thoughts on “First Hueco Trip of the 2013 Season”

  1. Wow, that is absolutely incredible! It defies gravity!! Quite the mental and physical accomplishment, congratulations and Happy B-Day!

  2. Holy cow Sharon, HEY!!! How are you lady!? Thanks for dropping a line! We miss you guys!! =)

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